Sunday Edit
  • Beauty
    • Skin
    • Hair
    • Makeup
    • Nails
  • Wellness
    • Mental Health
    • Health
    • Holistic & Spiritual
    • Love
    • Sex
  • Lifestyle
    • Home
    • Sustainability
    • Culture
    • Fashion
    • Travel
    • Gifts
  • Shop
  • About Us
Vine of chayote (Gracilaria).
linyuwei/Getty Images

Beauty » Skin » Ingredients

Algae Extract Is Changing the Skincare Game

Authored by Kristin Granero
Kristin Granero
May 20, 2021

Miracle ingredient. The ocean’s most potent secret. However you describe algae, it seems like it has been cropping up everywhere in the skincare world as of late. “Entire skincare lines and cosmetic brands infuse algae and other marine extracts into collections and feature them as the star ingredient,” says Zain Husain, M.D., FAAD of the New Jersey Dermatology and Aesthetics Center.

However, the use of algae in skincare traces back thousands of years. It is because algae feature great absorption qualities by soaking in all of the nourishment of the water into which it is immersed — like a sponge. “The reason algae is such a popular and efficient skincare ingredient is because it is full of potent antioxidants. The powerhouse ingredient is packed with minerals and vitamins A, B, C, D, E and K,” says Deanne Mraz Robinson, M.D., FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Connecticut.

According to Husain, there are two primary types of algae: macro and micro. “Macro is the large-scale type that’s visible to the naked eye and typically what initially comes to mind when ‘algae’ is mentioned,” he says. Seaweed falls into this category, along with kelp and the brownish-red seaweed from Japan called laminaria.

Microalgae (or ‘single cell’ algae), on the other hand, is so tiny that you can’t see them without a microscope. “These are fresh-water based and are plentiful both in sediment and liquid throughout the marine systems,” adds Husain.

Algae Benefits

“One of the most powerful properties that macro and microalgae have is the instant ability to plump up the skin’s moisture for long-term hydration. Algae also has a softening impact on the skin’s surface, which leaves it looking and feeling supple and youthful,” says Husain.

According to Ása Brynjólfsdóttir, director of research and development for Blue Lagoon Iceland, this is because nontoxic polysaccharides (such as alginate, agar, carrageenan and fucoidans) from certain algal species (like Chondrus crispus, Spiraea japonica and Codium tomentosum) help to regulate the distribution of water in the skin. “Studies have shown that they can help retain water or moisture, which is why they can be used as a substitute for lightweight oils, such as acetyl alcohol or silicone-derived ingredients. They also provide a soothing effect,” she explains.

That said, algae can also be hugely beneficial for those with sensitive skin or who are prone to acne. “Algae contains anti-inflammatory properties and can be used to treat dermatitis and eczema, as well as beta carotene, which helps treat whiteheads, blackheads and cysts,” Husain explains. He also notes that algae are rich in proteins, essential amino acids and a variety of vitamins (including vitamins A, B, C and E) for added nourishment.

Lastly, Husain points out that algae are packed with antioxidants, such as astaxanthin, which helps fight free radicals and combats aging. “In addition, it contains chemicals that inhibit the enzymes that degrade collagen,” he adds.

Shop
A photo of Sunday Riley's A+ bottle.

A+

High-Dose Retinoid Serum
$85.00
Shop

Pink Drink

Firming Resurfacing Essence
$48.00

The benefits can vary depending on the species of algae a skincare formula uses. Our pros break it down below to three major classes:

Red Algae

Most common forms: Irish Moss, Gracilaria and Porphyra

Best used for: anti-aging and antioxidant protection

Elif Bayraktar
Gracilaria gracilis, red algae, Rhodophyta.Elif Bayraktar/Getty Images

According to Brynjólfsdóttir, since “red light is reflected and blue light is absorbed,” red algae can easily process sunlight, which helps provide skin with maximum antioxidant protection.

According to Robinson, red algae is rich in potent amino acids, which can help to improve skin quality and firmness, as well as absorb some of the wavelengths of UV radiation. “Red algae are also typically high in polysaccharides (carrageenan), which can help improve the barrier function of the skin,” adds Jeffrey Fromowitz, M.D., FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in Boca Raton.

Algae extracts also function as thickening agents in skincare products — that is why you might find red algae in some of your favorite face masks thanks to its spreadable texture.

Brown Algae

Most common forms: Isochrysis, Postelsiapa maeformis and Laminaria digitata

Best used for: hydration and anti-inflammation

Laminaria algae in water at low tide.
Laminaria algae in water at low tide.Arrlxx/Getty Images

Also known as kelp, the heart of brown algae is a supplementary pigment called fucoxanthin. “It aids in the control of skin pigmentation and is anti-inflammatory. The pigment moisturizes the skin and keeps the skin cells working productively,” says Brynjólfsdóttir.

Fromowitz adds that brown algae contain Macrocystis pyrifera and is a source of vitamins, antioxidants, minerals and iodine. “It is thought that this can help detoxify the skin and support healthy collagen and elastin production,” he says. Because of its intense hydrating benefits, you can mainly find brown algae in products like serums, lotions and moisturizers.

Blue-Green Algae

Most common forms: Chlorella vulgaris and Ulva lactuca

Best used for: anti-acne, hydratation

Close-up of green leaves of sea lettuce, ulva lactuca, at low tide on the tidal flats of Waddensea, Netherlands
Close-up of green leaves of sea lettuce, ulva lactuca, at low tide on the tidal flats of Waddensea, NetherlandsTasfotoNL/Getty Images

Blue-green algae are also known as cyanobacteria or spirulina — it is the identifiable kind that you will find in many ponds and slow-moving bodies of water. “It creates a photosynthetic pigment chlorophyll, which traps light energy. This pigment is comparable to the red pigment called hemoglobin, which is in human red blood cells. It has an anti-inflammatory effect and provides oxygen to the uncovered surface of the algal species and prevents it from drying out by moisturizing it,” explains Brynjólfsdóttir.

In addition to hydration, research has shown that Blue Lagoon Algae in particular has a protective and repairing effect on the skin. “It prevents premature skin aging, reduces UV-induced degradation of collagen, and stimulates skin’s natural collagen production,” says Brynjólfsdóttir. As natural antimicrobial, blue-green algae can even kill off yeast that could be one of the underlying causes of acne.

Ready to take the plunge? Do not go scooping some up on your next nature walk at the lake (it will be full of bacteria). You will discover blue-green algae is readily available in a range of skincare products from serums to gel moisturizers to face masks.

We only recommend products we have independently researched, tested, and loved. If you purchase a product found through our links, Sunday Edit may earn an affiliate commission.

Beauty Skin Ingredients

Sundays should be special.

Sign up for the Sunday Edit newsletter to stay in-the-know on all things skincare and beyond.

Terms & Conditions and Privacy Policy

Most Popular

  • Hair Brushing: Experts Share How Often You Should Brush Your Hair (And Why)

  • Oil-Based Cleanser vs Water-Based Cleanser: Which is Right for You?

  • Using a Derma Roller for Hair Loss: Expert Steps for The Best Results

Read More
A portrait of a young woman with acne.

Blue Light: The Safe Acne Treatment

By Jessie Quinn
Close up of bright green seaweed.

Move Over Kale, There is a New Superfood in Town

By Tracy Tredoux
Moringa in various forms.

The 9 Superfoods You Need to Add to Your Diet in 2020

By Lindsay Tigar
A man wipes his face with a towel.

A Skincare Novice Gives it a Try (Hint: It’s a Guy)

By Frank Kobola
by
  • Beauty
  • Wellness
  • Lifestyle
  • Shop
  • About Us
  • Our Contributors
  • Terms + Conditions
  • Privacy Policy
  • California Privacy Notice
  • Contact Us
Make Sundays special! Stay in the loop on all things skincare (and beyond) with our weekly newsletter.
© 2023 Sunday Edit

We use cookies to ensure that you have the best experience on our site. By continuing to use our site, you accept the use of cookies. Learn more here

heart-envelope-email

No more Sunday scaries.

Make Sundays special again! Sign up for the Sunday Edit newsletter to stay in-the-know on topics that spark a conversation for everyone.
No Thank You!

Terms & Conditions and Privacy Policy