If you consider yourself a member of the dry-skin-type tribe, you know a thing or two about tightness, flakiness, itching and ashy skin tone. These are some of the hallmarks that come along with this skin type.
Meet the Experts
Sunday Riley , CEO, founder and product formulator
Brendan Camp, MD, is an NYC-based dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology.
Marisa Garshick, MD, is a dermatologist at Medical Dermatology & Cosmetic Surgery (MDCS) in New York.
Michael Somenek, MD, is a Washington, D.C.-based plastic surgeon.
Dry skin is nothing harmful — it just means that your skin is more prone to producing less sebum, or the oil that helps build the skin barrier and shield your skin against environmental factors such as dirt, humidity and temperature, according to Sunday Riley. “I have chronically dry skin. Due to the lack of sebum, the dry skin lacks the lipids (fats) needed to retain moisture and build a protective shield against harmful external or environmental factors,” she explains. “Dry skin also lacks the natural moisturizing factors that help the skin have water, therefore producing sebum. This often means you have a compromised moisture barrier. Essentially, it’s like having an ineffective raincoat: water leaves the skin easily, and because the barrier is weak, pollutants and irritants can penetrate more readily. This makes dry skin particularly vulnerable to environmental contaminants, leading to sensitivity and reactivity. Many people with dry skin experience itchiness, redness, and inflammation as a result. To address this, it’s crucial to exfoliate regularly to remove dull, dead skin cells. However, I don’t recommend using scrub exfoliants on the face — they can be too irritating. While scrubs can be fun and are great for the body, your face deserves gentler treatment. Opt for chemical exfoliants that are less abrasive and more effective at maintaining your skin’s health and vitality.”
Because dry skin does not retain water or moisture as well as other skin types, it can be tricky finding the right skincare ingredients to do the job. In fact, when a certain skincare product is not efficient at delivering a sufficient amount of hydration to the top layer of skin, the barrier function of the skin may not work as well, which may predispose the skin to infection or irritation, warns Brendan Camp, MD, an NYC-based dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology. What’s worse: He points out that certain skincare ingredients may cause or contribute to dry skin. “Using them in the setting of pre-existing dry skin can exacerbate the issues people with dry skin already have,” he adds.
If you identify as having dry skin, here are some of the skincare ingredients skincare pros recommend steering clear of — and what to look for instead.
Harsh Soaps
If you’ve ever used a cleanser or a moisturizer and experienced significant tightness in your skin directly or a few hours after using, it may contain harsh soaps that can be particularly drying. It is best to opt for gentle cleansers that often use gentle surfactants and pair that ingredient with other hydrating and nourishing ingredients so your skin won’t feel dry or stripped. ‘Harsh soaps can strip the skin of its natural oils, leading to deeper issues such as a compromised moisture barrier and severe dehydration. This stripping effect motivated the creation of Ceramic Slip, a gentle cleanser designed to avoid such damage. Seeing skin under a microscope that resembled the Sahara desert after using harsh cleansers inspired the formulation of Ceramic Slip to cleanse without stripping. Additionally, the Blue Moon formula offers a unique solution for those with extra dry skin, as it can double as a hydrating mask, providing deep nourishment and restoring the skin’s natural moisture balance,’ says Sunday.
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Alcohol
This might not sound like an ingredient you’d find in a product meant for your skin, but you’d be surprised. If you look at the ingredient labels on your skincare products, you’re likely to find a bevy of alcohols, often starting with the words “methanol,” “ethanol,” or “ethyl.” While alcohol can be a useful ingredient in skincare, as it helps get rid of dirt and oil buildup in pores, it can be particularly drying for those with dry skin and lead to subsequent irritation, which can appear as redness, itching and sensitivity of the skin, according to Dr. Garshick. For this reason, she recommends that dry-skin types look for alcohol-free skincare products.
“Some products contain certain types of alcohol, known as fatty alcohols, which may be derived from palm oil or coconut oil and can be added to help thicken the consistency of a product,” she says. “Certain alcohols that can be found that may not be considered harsh on the skin include cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and these can have emulsifying or emollient properties.”
‘For those with dry skin, it’s crucial to avoid alcohol-based toners and opt for gentler alternatives. Pink Drink, for example, is an excellent peptide-infused essence. Unlike many toners that rely on alcohol for a refreshing feel, Pink Drink hydrates and nourishes the skin without causing dryness or irritation, making it a superior choice for maintaining healthy, balanced skin,’ adds Riley.
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Fragrance
Fragrance is one of the most common ingredients used in skincare to make the product smell appealing. While it’s usually harmless in most skin types, those with dry skin tend to be more susceptible to irritation or allergy to fragrance. Dr. Garshick explains this can lead to redness, flaking, scaling, and itching. She recommends looking for fragrance-free products; however, she points out the fact that products that are “unscented” are not considered fragrance-free. “These products often have a masking fragrance that makes it unscented, which someone can still react to,” she adds.
Sunday Riley emphasizes the importance of aromatherapy benefits derived from using essential oils while firmly avoiding synthetic fragrances. ‘Essential oils not only provide a natural, soothing scent like German chamomile in Luna Sleeping Night Oil or lemongrass in Good Genes Lactic Acid treatment but also offer therapeutic benefits that enhance the overall skincare experience. These natural fragrances can uplift your mood, reduce stress, and promote a sense of well-being. Unlike synthetic fragrances, which can cause irritation and allergic reactions, essential oils are gentle on the skin and contribute to its health,’ explains Riley. By incorporating essential oils into her formulations, Sunday Riley ensures that her products deliver both effective skincare and the added benefits of natural aromatherapy.
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Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid, is a lipophilic compound, meaning it easily mingles with oil-like sebum, according to Dr. Camp. “It is effective as an acne medication because it helps remove oil within pores that can contribute to the formation of a pimple, however, someone with dry skin may find that salicylic acid-containing products make their symptoms of dry skin, like redness and flaking, worse,” he says. Sunday Riley recognized this issue and formulated UFO, an oil-based salicylic acid treatment that effectively targets blackheads and hormonal breakouts without causing excessive dryness. This innovative approach allows even those with dry skin to benefit from salicylic acid’s acne-fighting properties. The oil formula helps to maintain the skin’s moisture balance while clearing pores and reducing breakouts, making it a versatile solution for all skin types, including those dealing with occasional blackheads on the nose or hormonal breakouts.
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“Salicylic acid is one of my favorite ingredients for acne. Salicylic is oil-soluble, so it dissolves the oily build-up deep within the pore. It can be very drying as well, but that’s why I like U.F.O. oil – because it’s salicylic acid but in an emollient base, so it’s not going to strip your skin, and you can use it every single day,’ adds Riley.
Benzoyl Peroxide
Hailed as one of the best acne-fighting ingredients out there, thanks to its antibacterial nature and ability to remove dead skin and excess oil, Dr. Camp warns that some of its side effects include redness, dryness, irritation, and bleaching fabric. This can be particularly problematic for someone suffering from dry skin. He recommends an alternative for benzoyl-peroxide products is sulfur-containing products, like Sunday Riley Saturn Sulfur Spot Treatment Mask. “Sulfur products tend to be better tolerated,” she adds. Benzoyl peroxide is a common acne treatment known for its ability to kill bacteria, but it often over-dries the skin and disrupts its natural balance by eliminating both good and bad bacteria.
In contrast, Sunday Riley’s Good Genes offers a gentler yet effective solution. Good Genes works by creating an acidic environment on the skin that prevents P. acnes bacteria from thriving, while also hydrating and nourishing the skin. This approach maintains the skin’s natural microbiome, preserving the beneficial bacteria that protect and balance the skin. By using Good Genes, you can achieve clearer skin without the harsh, drying effects associated with benzoyl peroxide, promoting a healthier, more balanced complexion.
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