We’ve all caught ourselves checking out our complexions on Zoom, on selfie mode on our phones, and in those little magnifying mirrors on the vanity. With so many opportunities to stare deeply at your pores, you’ve probably noticed little dark spots that you might assume were blackheads or clogged pores, but they could actually be sebaceous filaments instead.
Though they appear similar, they’re actually different — so, what happens if you pull out sebaceous filaments? Does oil cleansing get rid of sebaceous filaments, too? So, we asked Sunday Riley, CEO, founder and product formulator, and Jessie Cheung, M.D., a dermatologist and founder of Cheung Aesthetics and Wellness, to help us break down the difference between the two and the right way to manage sebaceous filaments.
Meet the Experts
Sunday Riley CEO, founder and product formulator.
Jessie Cheung, M.D., is a dermatologist and founder of Cheung Aesthetics and Wellness.
Sebaceous filaments 101
We have hair all over our skin (even teeny tiny ones on your face) and each of those follicles has a sebaceous gland. Sebaceous filaments, which line your pores, “are tube-like collections of sebum and skin cells that make up the lining of your pores,” says Dr. Cheung. They’re a natural and necessary part of your skin and they’re responsible for keeping your complexion moisturized by bringing oil to the skin’s surface.
“Blackheads, on the other hand, are unwanted blockages caused by the accumulation of sebum (oil) and dead skin cells that your skin attempts to push out to the surface. Both blackheads and sebaceous filaments commonly appear on the nose due to its high number of hair follicles,” explains Sunday Riley.
For most people, sebaceous filaments are not easily visible to the eye — until they get filled up with excess oil. Need to tell the difference at a glance? Consider this your cheat sheet:
Blackheads:
- Clogged pores that are made of dead skin and oil
- They look like tiny dark spots
- They’re a type of acne
- They’re found anywhere from your face to your chest to your neck
Sebaceous filaments:
- A cluster of oil (sebum) and dead skin on your hair follicles
- They look like small gray spots (as opposed to black)
- They’re not acne
- They are usually located on your nose
What happens if you pull out sebaceous filaments?
As tempting it could be to try to pick at them, that might cause tears in your skin and introduce bacteria. “Picking and squeezing sebaceous filaments and blackheads will only produce a temporary decrease in appearance, and can cause irritation and scarring of your pores,” says Dr. Cheung. In other words, it’s a short-term payoff with long-term drawbacks. Also, even if you try to get them extracted since they’re natural to your body, they eventually come back.
What’s the best treatment for sebaceous filaments?
Sebaceous filaments aren’t harmful, but they can eventually lead to acne. You don’t want to completely abolish them because they have the healthy function of bringing necessary moisture to the skin’s surface. But, there are tactics to reduce their appearance or size by focusing your skincare routine on products that balance out oil production and slough off dead skin cells.
Good news: “Clay-based cleansers like Ceramic Slip can help reduce the appearance of sebaceous filaments by removing any buildup of sebum and dead skin, while also avoiding overly stripping the skin of moisture,” says Sunday Riley. Then, clear any dead skin cells with Sunday Riley Good Genes All-in-One Lactic Acid Treatment. It is an all in one alpha hydroxy acid serum that really transforms the surface of your skin by exfoliating the dull, pore clogging debris that’s on the top of your skin. Good Genes is formulated to optimize the skin’s pH balance, creating an environment where P. acnes bacteria — the primary bacteria responsible for acne — cannot thrive. By gently exfoliating the skin and removing excess sebum, it prevents the conditions that favor the growth of acne-causing bacteria, promoting clearer, healthier-looking skin.
“I’m a big believer that you need three things in your life in order to have great skin. That’s alpha hydroxy acids, vitamin C, and retinoids. You really need all three from my perspective, to have total skin transformation. Retinoids really work by helping to transform your skin from the bottom up, and alpha hydroxy acids really work from the top down by cleaning the kind of dirty slate that’s on the surface of your skin. So together, they’re often just a power couple because they really give you total and complete change. And vitamin C is such a strong antioxidant and really great for the overall look and appearance of your skin,” tells Sunday Riley.
What is the best ingredient for exfoliation? “Lactic acid is one of my absolute favorite alpha hydroxy acids. It’s a larger molecule, so it doesn’t sink as deeply into the surface of the skin as other alpha hydroxy acids, which makes it a little bit gentler. But it’s also the only one that’s hydrating. It’s great for everyone. It’s going to really resurface your skin, but it’s gentler, so you’re not going to get a lot of irritation from it. Whether you suffer from acne or you’re worried about fine lines and wrinkles or dark spots and discolorations, Good Genes All-in-One Lactic Acid treatment really improves the appearance of the skin, no matter what condition you’re working with.”
“Other gentle chemical exfoliants, such as glycolic acid and salicylic acid, are also great at loosening the dead skin cells and sebum,” says Dr. Cheung.
‘Try U.F.O. Acne Treatment Face oil. With 1.5 percent salicylic acid, this fast-acting, quick-drying, medicated oil clears acne and blackhead-causing buildup and debris from congested pores for smoother, blemish-free skin. Tea tree oil and black cumin seed oil support clear skin, while hexylresorcinol and licorice naturally brighten the appearance of old acne discolorations for a more even-toned complexion,” suggests Sunday Riley. After cleansing skin, massage in U.F.O to face, neck, and chest, as needed. U.F.O can be applied day or night.
For long-term control, incorporate a retinoid into your routine. A bucket term for vitamin A derivatives, “retinoids help to prevent the build-up of dead skin and sebum, which can turn a sebaceous filament into a blackhead, or worse, a pimple,” Dr. Cheung says. “The regular use of retinoids will keep your sebaceous filaments working properly while also minimizing the size of your pores.” Before your moisturizer (choose the one that have vitamin C in it like C.E.O. Afterglow), apply the Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum, which helps decongest skin with a 6.5% blend of retinoids and plant-based retinol alternatives.
“When I was formulating A+, I definitely knew I wanted to put together something that was really strong and really effective. So what I put together is a really high dose retinoid serum that’s balanced by botanicals. It transforms your skin with three retinoid or retinoid like ingredients. We have 5% of trans retinoic acid ester, 1% of a liposome encapsulated retinol and then 0.5% of a blue green algae, which has natural retinoid like activity. Hawaiian white honey, coenzyme Q10, which is one of my favorite antioxidants, ginger extract and cactus extract balance this formula. I wanted to make sure that as the skin’s getting this really powerful transformation from this retinoid blend, it’s also getting balanced by botanicals,” says Sunday.
Ease your way into using a retinoid serum like A+, which is really strong. You can start off by using it two nights on, two nights off, and then work your way up to every other night. And if you have sensitive skin, put the oil like Luna on first and then put A+ on top of it. And that’ll actually slow down the rate of infusion into your skin, so you’ll have a gentler experience with it. “If you’re used to using retinoids, just apply it straight. Put on oil and afterward in the morning, use Good Genes,” Sunday says. In an independent study, A+ Serum showed improvement in the appearance of skin tone evenness and calmness after one week. After 4 weeks, 90% of people saw boosted radiance and agreed the product was gentler than other facial retinoid serums used in the past.
She thinks that anyone interested in retinoids will really love this product, because they’re going to see results right away, no matter what their concern is, and then they can customize how they use the product to get the results that they want to see.
Ultimately, the right steps in your skincare routine can go a long way to keep blackheads at bay — and sebaceous filaments, practically invisible. That’s a win-win.
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