Desert or art enthusiast? If you haven’t already heard of Marfa, chances are this is a place you’re going to love. Situated at an altitude of 4,830 feet above sea level and surrounded by the Chinati, Chisos, and Davis Mountains, Marfa has garnered plenty of attention for its mysterious Marfa Lights and also serving as the film location for Giant, James Dean’s final picture. Then, in the 1970s, acclaimed minimalist artist Donald Judd left New York City, settled in Marfa, and it’s been a destination for artists and art-lovers since.
Despite its destination status for all things creative, Marfa is a generally quiet, sleepy town that tends to come alive on the weekends as more businesses open and the visitors pour in. Generally, the best times to visit are Wednesday-Sunday, and making reservations for as many things as you can is recommended, as hours and events can change pretty quickly around here. Another key to enjoying your stay in Marfa? Flexibility! Arrive with a good attitude, be respectful of the people and your surroundings, and accept that you may not have the experience you had planned. But you’ll have the experience that Marfa wants to give you, and that is usually a pretty spectacular time.
Where To Stay
Hotel Saint George ($$$)
This cushy 55-room hotel stands on the original Hotel Saint George site, which was built in 1886. Sip on a spicy margarita at the bar downstairs, make reservations for dinner at La Venture, or walk across the street to Pool Marfa for a soak in the hot tub as the train rolls by.
The Lincoln ($$)
Located right across the street from the courthouse on Lincoln Street (see what they did there?), the Lincoln is a gorgeous, colorful lodging community for travelers and Marfans. It’s also located right next to Aster, so you can scoop up some baked goods or a Benedict in the morning.
El Cosmico ($+)
Chances are, you’ve seen these technicolor trailers all over Pinterest and Instagram already. And whether you’re here to pitch your own tent or spend the night in one of their renovated trailers, there’s something here for every kind of camper.
Where To Eat and Drink
Cochineal
The food situation in Marfa is always changing, so it’s best to not try and over plan your trip. With that being said, if you’re able to secure reservations for Cochineal — do it. The ever-changing menu is currently served prix-fite with an A+ cocktail menu.
Margaret’s
New(ish) to the scene, this dinner diner is offering up everything from *delicious* tuna melts to bolognese made with local beef from the town’s own Marfa Meats. Just be sure and save room for a slice of key lime pie!
Frama
Whether the previous night involved too much wine or excessive stargazing, replenishing your caffeine levels in Marfa is never an issue. Peep the gorgeous Instagram-famous mural outside this coffee shop/laundromat hybrid and consider adding a scoop of homemade ice cream to your order.
The Sentinel
The Sentinel is a restaurant, coffee shop, bar, and event venue serving locally inspired food, cocktails, and news to both locals and visitors. With plenty of seating both inside and out, it’s a great spot to enjoy a drink and read the paper (available for purchase at the counter, of course).
Planet Marfa
The months between Spring Break and Thanksgiving is a magical time for locals and visitors — it’s when Planet Marfa is open for business! This wine-and-beer outdoor bar features different vignettes for socializing or isolating, from a treehouse above the bar to a tipi with a fire pit. I highly recommend the nachos — the smoky pico de gallo is incredible.
Cloudy’s
Serving breakfast tacos, burgers, and other homemade and locally-sourced items, you’ll definitely want to hit this food truck up — whether you’re staying on the El Cosmico grounds or elsewhere. Their menu changes often, so check out their Instagram to see what’s up for the week.
Do Your Thing
Breakfast can be a tricky situation in Marfa, but if you find yourself here on the weekends (or just any time after Tuesday night), you’re in a good spot. Do Your Thing offers organic coffee and delicious homemade sourdough toasts, like the Solidarity toast with avocado, tahini, za’atar, chili Flakes, toasted sesame seeds, and Maldon Flake Salt.
Convenience West
Available for online orders on the weekends, Convenience West offers a revolving menu of delicious smoked meats and treats. Be sure and visit their website to place your order a day ahead of pickup and if there’s banana pudding on the menu, don’t think twice.
Jett’s Grill
Located inside Hotel Paisano, Jett’s Grill offers indoor and outdoor seating around the hotel’s fountain. Opt for a mezcal cocktail and if you spot the pistachio-crusted steak on the menu, I urge you to go for it.
Water Stop
Positioned on the west side of town, Water Stop is open for lunch and dinner with a stellar all-day cocktail menu. I recommend the Marfa Mystery Lights gin cocktail, the cheese plate, and whatever pasta they have on the menu.
What To Do
Wrong
For those seeking a truly unique shopping experience, head over to Wrong. With treasures ranging from hilarious cross-stitching kits to custom-made works from Camp Bosworth, this is where you go to scoop a souvenir for your absolute favorite person.
The Get Go
For all the organic and “city” assortment of snacks and goods, the Get Go is your spot. Be sure to check out the cooler in front of the counter for their ever-changing assortment of chilled snacks and pre-made meals, and don’t forget to grab one of their iconic canvas totes. (Seriously, they’re everywhere.)
Cobra Rock
You’re in Far West Texas — a solid pair of boots is a must. So pop inside Cobra Rock’s new space, located right across the street from the Get Go. Each pair is perfectly constructed and honestly, will probably outlast you.
Mira Marfa
Between the high elevation, beating sun, and dry air, your skin could probably use a little TLC. Mira Marfa offers services, products, SPF, and a gorgeous assortment of vintage goods, all handpicked by Licensed Medical Esthetician and skincare expert Jacqueline Del Olmo. If you’re lucky enough to find an open spot in her calendar, book a WB Elevated Mira Treatment ASAP.
Raba
Shopping for vintage goods or something special to bring home? Pop into Raba to shop everything from beautiful perfumes to a top-notch assortment of vintage clothing and vinyl.
Stop & Read
Marfa offers plenty of time to slow down, stop, and read, so it’s only right that there’s a local bookstore that gets it. Pop in over the weekend to browse the selection, or you can also sign up for a monthly subscription service that sends the books to you — along with access to a community of other readers. It’s basically the book club of the socially distanced future.
What to Do
Chinati Foundation
Located right on the outside of town, this contemporary art museum should be on everyone’s list. Stop inside the visitor’s center for a pass to view the concrete works outside (please don’t lean, stand, or sit on them!) or book a guided tour to see some incredible works by Dan Flavin, Robert Irwin, Donald Judd, and more.
Ballroom Marfa
Ballroom Marfa is a contemporary art and performance space is housed in a 1920s-era ballroom. Free and open to the public, Ballroom commissions new site-specific and site-inspired projects, giving both artists and musicians the chance to share their work with the Big Bend region. Check out their website during your visit to see about any current or upcoming events.
“The Desk” at Hancock Hill
Technically located in Alpine about 25 miles away, Hancock Hill rises directly behind Sul Ross University at an elevation of 4,849 feet (that’s about 350 feet above the university). Once you get to the summit, you’ll see an old beat up desk that overlooks the east, toward Marathon and the Glass Mountains. Sit for a bit, jot down a note in the notebook in the drawer, and just be.
The Marfa Lights
Once you move to Marfa, you’ll hear one question again and again: “Have you seen the Marfa lights?” The answers may vary, but you can always experience this phenomenon for yourself at the Marfa Lights Viewing Center, located east of town. Arrive at dusk, bring a blanket, and see if you can spot them!
The Parks
Big Bend National Park is only a couple of hours away, along with Big Bend Ranch State Park, Davis Mountains State Park, and Balmorhea State Park. I highly recommend taking at least a day or so to visit one or more of them. But if you’re pressed for time, Davis Mountains State Park is only about 30 minutes away, in Fort Davis. Bring plenty of water, make sure your phone is charged (you probably won’t have a signal, but just in case!), and get ready for some spectacular views.
Marfa Open
The Marfa Open Gallery is a historic train depot turned art HQ for community art, music, exhibitions, film screenings, and more. Drive over near the Dairy Queen in town (hint: it’s the only one), and if the signage is out on the corner, stop in and see what’s going on.
Prada Marfa
Chances are if you’re coming to Marfa, this is already on your list. This permanent land art project by artists Elmgreen & Dragset is actually located in Valentine about 30-35 minutes away. Get there early and be prepared to wait. You’re not the only one that rolled into town for that selfie.
