We’ve all had some kind of skincare routine since we first discovered cleansers and moisturizers. Once exfoliants, essences, and oils enter the mix, the art of skincare layering can become a little fuzzy. We asked Sunday Riley, CEO, founder and product formulator, where to start.
“I break my own rules all the time. My skincare routine is based on what happens that morning, if I’m rushed or not. The simple and main start of any routine is going to be: washing your face with Ceramic Slip Cleanser, then you’re going to spritz it with something like Pink Drink, our firming, peptide-infused essence. After you cleanse your skin, it’s an amazing opportunity to get a really powerful water-based essence or toner into the skin. There’s no barrier there. We just cleansed all this stuff away, so those powerful peptides can really get in there,” says Sunday. The next step is Good Genes All-in-One Lactic Acid treatment. “Personally, I use Good Genes once a day. You can actually use it twice a day. We certainly have people who use it twice a day. If you use it twice daily, I would use one pearl-size amount.” After these 3 steps, your skin will be ready for any other treatments.
Before we dive into the AM and PM routines, let’s discuss why you need to crack the product layering code in the first place. While the primary job of our skin is to protect our bodies and keep toxins out, we need our products’ active ingredients to be able to effectively penetrate the skin in order to work their magic.
“Since skin irritation and sensitivity are factors to consider when layering skincare, your skincare routine should have products that complement each other,” says Nikoleta Brankov, M.D., a Virginia-based board-certified dermatologist.
Meet the Experts
Sunday Riley , CEO, founder and product formulator
Nikoleta Brankov, M.D., a Virginia-based board-certified dermatologist
We asked Sunday Riley what her thoughts are on the trend of a skincare smoothie or a cocktail. “Well, I’ve been doing this since the day I was born. I’m all about the smoothie or the cocktail. I basically take about two or three products, blend them in the palm of my hands, and apply them together. That’s my go-to. Basically, it just takes two steps out of the way. One of my favorite cocktails is the C.E.O. Glow oil (2 drops) and C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening serum (1-2 pumps). It’s just this really, really, really hefty dose of vitamin C. It’s that simple and super-infused. I actually find that together they sink into the skin faster than they do separately as individuals, and it doesn’t affect the effectiveness of these products,” explains Sunday.
Wondering how certain skincare products rank in your twice-daily routine? ‘There’s really no right or wrong way to do it, but the general rule of thumb is to go from lighter to heavier consistencies – water-based serums first, so they have a chance to soak in, moving towards moisturizer last, but this will also depend on the product’s active ingredients,” says Sunday. ‘The exception at Sunday Riley is our oil-based serums, which are more like treatment oils. C.E.O Glow, for instance, is a really powerful vitamin C-infused oil, and Luna is infused with retinol. These treatment oils can go earlier in your routine, versus oils that just soothe and nurture – like argan oil – which would go later because they really seal in moisture.’
View this post on Instagram
For example, products that contain retinol need to be able to penetrate deep into the skin (the basal layer of the epidermis, to be exact), so you’ll want to ensure that it doesn’t have too many layers of product to work through. Conversely, humectants and emollients (typically found in moisturizers) need to be able to sit on top of the skin to lock in hydration and keep environmental toxins from seeping in.
How to Layer Your AM Skincare Products
Your morning routine should center around cleansing and protecting your skin from harmful UV rays and environmental pollution.
Step 1: Cleanser
Once you’re up and running in the morning, it’s time to rinse away your PM products and any dead skin cells that have accumulated while you were catching up on your zzz’s. Also, remember that unless you’re switching out your pillowcase regularly, you’re also resting on a shared surface with your hair, meaning excess oils, any products left on your hair before bed, and yes, even germs from coughing and drooling throughout the night. So, with those lovely details in mind, make sure you’re using a cleanser that’s both effective and gentle, like Sunday Riley Ceramic Slip Cleanser. This plant-based cleanser is able to pull dirt and impurities from the face without stripping the skin of much-needed hydration. It will also help ensure that you’re kicking off your routine with a clean slate so the rest of your products can reach your skin without having to power through excess oil and dirt first.
Ceramic Slip is gentle enough for a baby and powerful enough to dissolve eye makeup. This soothing clay-based cleanser (for all skin types) removes makeup, impurities, and excess oil without stripping the skin. “When you strip your skin, it might feel really good at first, but then it starts to create micro-cracks which collect bacteria, and it’s a disaster,” says Sunday. White and green clays purity, while rice and olive oil esters infuse hydration back into the skin for smaller-looking pores and a clean, balanced complexion. Can be used twice a day, on dry or wet skin.
Step 2: Essence
Essence exists as more of a booster before your serums, oils, and moisturizers or the first step in the treatment part of your regimen. Consider an invigorating essence immediately after cleansing — Sunday Riley Pink Drink Firming Resurfacing Essence works to balance and firm the look of skin without that uncomfortable, tight feeling that toners can leave behind. Aside from the refreshing, wake-you-up feel, it also drenches the skin in much-needed antioxidants and prebiotics, which help support the microbiome. It is a power drink for your skin infused with peptides to resurface, firm, and balance. Pink Drink has prebiotics to support the skin’s natural microbiome, vitamin-rich apricot and cucumber extracts, EGCG (a super-powered antioxidant from green tea), and ceramides. “We must remember that there are all sorts of bad and good bacteria on our skin at all times, and we really want to support the good bacteria in whatever way we can. I spray it on throughout the day, even on top of makeup — it really supports the natural positive functioning of your skin,” says Sunday. Can be used twice a day, misted directly on the face, or massaged into the skin.
Step 3: Serums and/or Oils
The exfoliation is super important. “You could spend $5 billion on the best products in the world, but if it’s just sinking into your dead skin cells, it’s like, what’s the point?” says Sunday. While many treatment serums are targeted for night-time use, a gentle yet powerful AHA formula like Sunday Riley Good Genes All-in-One Lactic Acid Treatment can totally be applied in the morning (and at night) before your other treatments to remove dull-looking dead skin and prep your complexion.
Serums need to be kept as close to the skin as possible due to their antioxidant and nutrient-rich formulations. A vitamin C-infused product like Sunday Riley C.E.O. Glow oil and C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum is the perfect next step — it absorbs quickly to plump the look of skin and brighten without a sticky, greasy residue. “Apply 2-3 drops of C.E.O. Glow oil to your face and neck, followed by 1-2 pumps of C.E.O. Serum (or mix them together and apply as a skin cocktail),” recommends Sunday. C.E.O. Brightening Serum, powered by 15% advanced Vitamin C, is targeted to quickly fight the look of dullness, dark spots, and discolorations while diminishing the signs of aging for visibly brighter-looking skin. Provides antioxidant support to protect the skin from free radical damage with a powerful, stable form of Vitamin C. Can be used twice a day.
Step 4: Moisturizer
Those with oily complexions may roll their eyes at the thought of adding more moisture to their face, but hear us out: everyone needs to moisturize to ensure the skin has adequate protection before stepping outside. Even oily skin can become dehydrated or dry. Knowing how to layer moisturizers is just as important for your skin as other skincare products to keep your skin hydrated. Reach for a lightweight moisturizer while your skin is still damp from your serum — this will help the product lock in that necessary hydration. If you’re targeting dullness, discoloration or aiming for extra protection against pollutants, reach for a hydrating, glow-inducing moisturizer packed with vitamin C, like C.E.O. Afterglow gel cream. Powered by THD Ascorbate (high-strength, advanced Vitamin C), C.E.O. Afterglow gel cream plumps, brightens, and evens skin tone while working to firm the skin’s appearance with over 24 hours of continuous hydration. Can be used twice a day.
Step 5: Eye Cream
Moisturizers and eye creams can typically be applied interchangeably, but you’ll also want to consider the eye cream formulation before you settle into a sequence. For example, if you’re using a brightening eye cream like Sunday Riley Auto Correct Eye Cream, you’ll want to apply this eye cream post-moisturizer — this guarantees that the light-reflecting particles stay put where they’re most needed and brighten and diffuse the look of dark circles. Auto Correct banishes tired-looking eyes with uplifting caffeine, horse chestnut, and Brazilian ginseng. This eye cream instantly delivers a lifted and depuffed look to the eye area while rapidly reducing the appearance of dark circles and fine lines. Can be used twice a day.
Step 6: SPF
Regardless of whether you’re skipping essence or switching your eye cream/moisturizer order, an SPF should always be the last step in your morning skincare regimen. Why? Because it allows your other targeted treatments time to absorb into your skin, especially vitamin C products. “Vitamin C serums should be layered underneath sunscreen in the morning since they complement one another, and both protect against the harmful UV sun rays,” explains Dr. Brankov. Applying SPF before any other skincare steps is counter-productive — you may be doing your part to block harmful UV rays, but you’ll also be preventing active ingredients in your other products. Ideally, you’ll want to wait about 20-30 minutes after your skincare routine to apply your sunscreen.
How to Layer Your PM Skincare Products
While your morning routine is centered around protection and hydration, your evening regimen should be dedicated to treatment and recovery. Check in with your skin at the end of each day. If you’re noticing a lackluster complexion, you may want to exfoliate. As Sunday recommends for those who use Good Genes twice a day, just use one pearl-size amount. Experiencing irritation? Add a dose of hydration with a thicker moisturizer. But targeted treatments aside, check your current product order with the recommended sequence below.
Step 1: Cleanser (Double-Cleansing Optional)
Why double cleanse in the evening? Because you have a day’s worth of build-up on your face, especially if you wear makeup and SPF. As long as you have a gentle cleanser like Ceramic Slip, you can double-cleanse using the same product. But for a deeper, SPF and makeup-dissolving cleanse, start with something soothing and sugar-based, like Sunday Riley Blue Moon Clean Rinse Cleansing Balm. “This extra-soft melting balm not only melts away stubborn makeup but also contains therapeutic essential oils of Blue Tansy and German chamomile to calm your skin and help you wind down. When I apply it in the evening, it feels like an aromatherapy session,” say Sunday. Once your makeup is completely rinsed away, wash with a Ceramic Slip to ensure your pores are extra-clean (and primed to soak in your nighttime active ingredients!)
Step 2: Essences
Depending on the type of concern and formulation, essences are generally great for all skin types, they’re wonderful for adding an extra dose of hydration, too. Since many essence formulations are very lightweight and water-based, you can apply them interchangeably after cleansing. After patting your skin dry, mist Pink Drink onto your face. Massage into your skin and let dry.
Step 3: Treatments and/or Serums, Oils
The body rests to recharge itself, and the same concept applies to the skin. That’s why many retinol-based products like Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum and Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil, and other targeted treatments are best applied at night. Advanced-strength retinoid serum A+ delivers a 6.5% solution of stabilized retinoid blends and botanical, retinol-alternative extracts into the skin. Retinol ester in Luna reduces the appearance of pores and wrinkles while fighting the visible signs of premature aging: fine lines, uneven texture, dark spots, dryness, and dullness.
You may apply a multi-treatment product, such as Good Genes All-in-One Lactic Acid Treatment, at night, too. This AHA serum is able to rapidly exfoliate and keep skin hydrated without irritation, so you can mark a few concerns off your list with one use.
NOTE: Ingredients like vitamin C may have a daytime-only reputation, but you can still absolutely apply them at night, too. Try the C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum for an added boost of brightness and collagen-building benefits that will carry you into the morning. Vitamin C will also help to repair damage caused by environmental stresses throughout the day.
After you exfoliate your skin with Good Genes, apply 1-2 pumps of A+ Serum to your face and neck, followed by 3-4 drops of Luna oil (or mix them together and apply as a skin cocktail, one of Sunday’s favorites).
Step 4: Eye Cream
Targeted and gentle anti-aging treatment for the delicate eye area, 5 stars Retinoid+Niacinamide eye serum is powered by a 6% retinoid complex and bioactive centella asiatica to support healthy collagen. This wrinkle-fighting eye cream is balanced with poppy seed extract and ceramides to soothe, smooth, and nurture the eye area, while olive oil and shea butter rehydrate for overnight restoration. Apply daily in the evenings, before or after moisturizer. Using your ring and middle fingers, lightly tap a pearl-sized amount onto the eye area and massage outwards around the outer crow’s feet, under the eye, and between the brow bone and eyebrow.
Step 5: Moisturizer and/or Night Cream
If you’d like to step up your hydration game, it may be time to reach for a thicker, nourishing moisturizer. “Moisturizers with ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid and glycerin help to hydrate and soothe the skin after exfoliating with a lactic acid,” says Dr. Brankov. And because our skin loses water as we sleep, it’s vital to have an extra-hydrating option in your beauty sleep arsenal, like Sunday Riley ICE Ceramide Moisturizing Cream. This rich cream uses ceramides and hydrating coconut to prevent excess water loss and works while you sleep to prevent tight, thirsty skin in the morning. It is also enriched with Vitamin F and Ceramides 3, 6, and 9, strengthening the natural moisture barrier against environmental stressors for plump-looking, baby-soft skin.
Other Layering Factors to Consider
Skin type and routines aside, it’s important to consider the time it takes for your skin to absorb your products. While some of us may be in a rush in the morning, ideally, you should have more time in the evenings to allow your night treatments to properly absorb. If you’re feeling stressed or pressed for time throughout your morning and/or evening routines, you may want to simplify a bit to allow yourself (and the products) enough time to get to work. Don’t feel like you have to stand in front of the mirror applying everything in one sitting. You may start your regime after you have cooked dinner and apply the last product when you get into bed.
“Keep in mind that the product layering routines aren’t etched in stone. Your skin is unique and it’s important to find what works best for you. If you’re seeing the results you desire from your current routine and it differs from the sequences above, keep doing what works best for you and your skin. When I wake up in the morning, I want to glow like a disco ball, I want to be like radiant, glowy, dewy,” says Sunday.
We only recommend products we have independently researched, tested, and loved. If you purchase a product found through our links, Sunday Edit may earn an affiliate commission.
