It happens to the best of us. We wake up seemingly well-rested, only to look in the mirror and see under-eye bags and dark circles galore. Sure, slathering on correcting concealer can certainly help, but it begs us to ask the question of why we are plagued with these pesky, tired-looking features in the first place.
Meet the Experts
Sunday Riley , CEO, founder and product formulator
Jeremy A. Brauer , M.D., a New York-based dermatologist
Alisha Plotner , M.D., a dermatologist at The Ohio State University Wexner Medical Center
David Cangello , M.D., F.A.C.S., a plastic surgeon at Cangello Plastic Surgery in New York City
As it turns out, there are a myriad of factors that cause eye-related issues, all of which are related to anatomy. The first has to do with aging. “The skin around the eye area, also known as periorbital skin, is the thinnest in the body,” says Sunday Riley. “Therefore, as we age, this area of the body is often the first to show signs of aging in the form of collagen breakdown — namely fine lines, wrinkles, and laxity.” She further explains that aging skin, in combination with skeletal changes and minimal supporting structures beneath (fat pads, muscle), further contribute to these issues.
Understanding the causes behind dark circles, which include genetics, lack of sleep, dehydration, and poor diet, she sought to develop a solution that addressed these issues holistically. Other factors include sun damage and exposure, stress, poor diet, fatigue, and certain medical conditions, including thyroid and kidney disease, seasonal allergies, nasal congestion, and dermatitis of the eyelids.
Sunday Riley’s inspiration to create Auto Correct Brightening and Depuffing Eye Contour cream stemmed from her personal struggle with persistent dark circles and puffiness. ‘Auto Correct is a meticulously formulated eye cream featuring key ingredients like caffeine, which constricts blood vessels to reduce puffiness and dark circles. It’s in the top 10 eye creams in America. Light-reflecting pigments bounce back light to instantly brighten the under-eye area. The formula also deeply hydrates, smooths fine lines, and strengthens the skin around the eyes with horse chestnut extract,’ explains Riley. This comprehensive approach ensures that Auto Correct provides immediate cosmetic benefits (‘It’s 8 hours of sleep in one pump,’ laughs Riley) and delivers long-term treatment for a more refreshed and youthful appearance.
So, if you are suffering from under-eye baggage (literally), it may be due to many causes. To help you figure out what might be the culprit for you individually, it is best to break down the differences between the three most common under-eye issues: dark circles, puffy eyes, and under-eye bags.
Dark Circles
Just as they are described, these darker-than-skin-color circles lie just beneath the eyes and can be caused by a number of things.
There are several types of dark circles, each with different causes and characteristics:
- Pigmented Dark Circles: These are caused by an excess of melanin in the skin and appear as brown or black discoloration. They are often hereditary and more common in individuals with darker skin tones.
- Vascular Dark Circles: These result from poor blood circulation or thinning skin, revealing the underlying blood vessels. They often appear blue or purple and can be exacerbated by factors like lack of sleep, allergies, or dehydration.
- Structural Dark Circles: These are due to the shadowing effect caused by the natural contours of the face, such as deep tear troughs or hollow under-eyes. They can appear as dark shadows rather than true discoloration.
- Mixed Dark Circles: A combination of the above types, where multiple factors contribute to the appearance of dark circles. These are often the most challenging to treat as they require a multifaceted approach.
‘Aging is another contributing factor that can further thin the skin, shift the supportive fat pads lying underneath, and cause enlargement of the orbit (the hollow in the skull where our eye is),’ Riley explains. Most of the time, dark circles are not accompanied by swelling, unlike puffy eyes and under-eye bags. And if you spend a lot of time with your eyes locked onto a screen, be it your cell phone, computer, or TV, you may also experience worsening dark circles. There is some scientific evidence that supports the connection between emitted blue light from electronic devices to eye fatigue and damage.
How to treat:
Treatment of dark circles mainly depends on the cause. “If the cause is increased vascularity and thin skin, then products with caffeine (to constrict vessels) and retinol or retinoids (to thicken skin) can help,” says Riley. ‘Many eye creams, which I absolutely love, are typically formulated to target lines, wrinkles, and hydration. For the dark circles, you’ll need AutoCorrect. With AutoCorrect, we’re not just diffusing the appearance of dark circles; we’re actively combating them, along with reducing eye puffiness. Caffeine works by constricting blood vessels, which reduces the appearance of dark circles and puffiness. On the other hand, retinol and retinoids in 5 Stars Retinoid+Niacinamide Eye Serum help to thicken the delicate skin around the eyes by promoting collagen production, which in turn minimizes the visibility of underlying blood vessels.’
Sunday’s tip: ‘I often apply Auto Correct after makeup on my cheekbones for a subtle, natural highlight. It also works wonderfully on the bridge of my nose and on the Cupid’s bow of my lip for an added touch of brightness.’
Whatever the cause, a little concealer can go a long way. Reach for one with a yellow tint to offset the darker hue in this area, and mix it with AutoCorrect when you are applying.
Puffy Eyes
The cause of puffy eyes (where the area underneath the eye is expanded or swollen) is often increased fluid in the eye tissues, often the result of allergies (sometimes accompanied by redness in the situation), lack of sleep, or crying, explains Plotner. In rare cases, however, puffy eyes can be due to underlying medical conditions that cause all-over tissue swelling and fluid accumulation. Diet can also be a factor, as salty foods can cause swelling in many areas of the body, including the under-eye area.
“Puffy eyes differ from dark circles and under-eye bags in the sense that swelling is at play, albeit mild and generalized around the eye area (unlike bags, which is a focal area of increased tissue),” adds Riley.
How to treat:
If the diet is the culprit, avoiding salty foods and alcohol might do the trick. If the puffiness is due to allergies or environmental exposures, consider seeing your primary care provider, who can refer you to an allergist to help determine a course of action to mitigate the side effects of your allergies. In the meantime, under-eye products that contain caffeine and retinol or retinoids as well as cold application (whether patch, roller or ice) may help temporarily by constricting blood vessels that contribute to circles.
‘This is my go-to hack that I swear by. Besides keeping AutoCorrect in the refrigerator — because a cold AutoCorrect works even better — I love to mix two pumps of it with a bit of concealer in my hand. Applying this mixture keeps the concealer fresh and prevents it from settling into fine lines. For an extra cooling effect, use cryo globes under your eyes to reduce puffiness and enhance circulation. You can also apply Auto Correct all over your face for an overall brightening and tightening effect. Now, we need a little skincare fridge next to our bedside so we can apply this perfect blend even in the middle of the night,’ says Riley.
Under-Eye Bags
Always found just under the lower eyelid, these pesky bags are primarily due to aging and genetics, explains David Cangello, M.D., F.A.C.S., a plastic surgeon at Cangello Plastic Surgery in New York City. “There is fat inside the orbit that the eyeball essentially sits on. When that fat pooches out, it creates what appears as a ‘bag,’” he says. Aging tends to be another culprit, which is why a skincare regimen that includes an under-eye cream containing moisturizing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides can help. ‘Ceramides play a vital role in reducing under-eye bags by strengthening the skin’s natural barrier, retaining moisture, and enhancing skin elasticity. They help fortify the delicate under-eye area, preventing moisture loss and protecting against external irritants. By keeping the skin well-hydrated and plump, ceramides reduce the visibility of under-eye bags and fine lines. Additionally, they soothe and calm the skin, reducing inflammation and puffiness. Consistent use of ceramides in eye creams or serums can improve skin resilience, making it less prone to sagging and resulting in a smoother, more youthful appearance,’ adds Riley.
How to treat:
‘Circulation plays a crucial role in the formation and appearance of under-eye bags. Poor blood circulation can lead to fluid retention and the accumulation of toxins in the delicate skin under the eyes, resulting in puffiness and swelling. This can be exacerbated by factors such as lack of sleep, stress, allergies, and dehydration, which all contribute to sluggish blood flow. Incorporate a lymphatic face massage using your fingertips or a facial roller to boost circulation and reduce fluid retention, which can help diminish under-eye bags. Next, apply a retinol eye cream, like Sunday Riley’s 5 Stars, to promote collagen production and strengthen the skin, helping to minimize under-eye bags and fine lines,’ recommends Riley. Cryo Globes or facial rollers, when chilled, provide a cooling effect that constricts blood vessels and reduces puffiness.
‘Caffeine is well-known for its potential benefits in skincare, particularly in addressing fluid retention and puffiness. Its vasoconstrictive properties can help reduce swelling and improve the appearance of under-eye bags by constricting blood vessels. Many skincare products leverage caffeine for its ability to temporarily tighten and firm the skin. A handy trick for boosting the efficacy of caffeine-infused products like Auto Correct eye cream is to store them in the refrigerator. The cold temperature enhances their de-puffing action, making them even more effective. For best results, apply these products at night to wake up with refreshed, less puffy skin. And remember, incorporating these tips into your Sunday night routine can be a game-changer for your weekly skincare regimen,’ says Riley.
Note: Lymphatic drainage massage involves gentle, rhythmic movements to stimulate lymphatic fluid flow and reduce swelling.
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