While 50 may be the new 30 and Beyoncé’s proven she’s 24 forever (see: Renaissance World Tour announcement), even the genetically blessed among us will admit the passing of decades means inevitable change.
“We’re all going to get older. Our skin is going to shrivel up, and we’re going to look different,” Halle Berry told the AARP. Actress Diane Lane previously said, “I take comfort that aging happens to everybody. It’s part of life.”
Perhaps legendary artist Yoko Ono summed it up best when she told Vogue in 2006, “I don’t believe in ages like 40s and 70s. I believe in change.” (Keep in mind she modeled hot pants for the magazine when she was 79 years old!)
We can accept change, but maybe we don’t need to accept our skin shriveling up just yet, Halle.
So we asked experts to tell us what skin changes to expect in our life evolution and how to best support those changes.
Meet the Experts
Sunday Riley , CEO, founder and product formulator
Karyn Grossman, M.D. is a cosmetic surgeon and dermatologist, and the founder and director of Grossman Dermatology in Santa Monica.
Although we frequently associate skin health with beauty, its primary function is to protect the body from external elements like chemicals, bacteria, physical injury, and temperature, explains Sunday Riley, CEO, founder, and product formulator. “Skin health is crucial, as it not only safeguards the body’s internal organs but also serves as an indicator of internal health issues. Often, internal concerns manifest through our skin, alerting us to potential problems within our body,” she says. Discover personalized skincare solutions from the comfort of your own home with Sunday Riley’s complimentary virtual consultations. Our expert aestheticians are at your service, offering bespoke advice tailored to your unique skin needs and goals.
Keep It Simple in Your 20s
“In your 20s, skincare should be about prevention,” says Sunday Riley. “Good skincare starts when you’re a child or at least a teenager, and that will help you age well.”
Luckily, that prevention is pretty easy. “Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and put on sunscreen,” Grossman says. “I know a lot of 20-year-olds aren’t great at taking care of their skin because they’re busy in school or at new jobs. So keep it simple. If you can add a light moisturizer and eye cream, that’s great, but I know it doesn’t always happen.”
Grossman is adamant about washing twice daily. “There’s this new trend about not washing your face in the morning because you were sleeping and didn’t do anything to get dirty,” she says. “At night, there’s buildup from the products you’ve used or oils from your hair. Your skin’s already absorbed the active ingredients from your nighttime skincare so it’s useless to keep it on in the morning. Just wash with a hydrating cleanser.”
‘Good skincare starts with a good cleanser. Cleansing for at least one minute is ideal but if you’re washing your face at all, I’m happy. Believe it or not, a lot of people come to us who actually don’t wash their face at all, and that’s problematic. Not cleansing properly can cause so many skin issues, including inflammation, sensitivity, redness, and collagen degradation,’ shares Riley.
Double cleansing with Sunday Riley’s Ceramic Slip and Blue Moon Clean Rinse Cleansing Balm is an effective way to thoroughly clean and nourish your skin. Start with Blue Moon Clean Rinse Cleansing Balm, which melts away makeup, sunscreen, and impurities with its luxurious, hydrating formula. This balm contains essential oils and blue tansy to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it perfect for the first step in your double cleanse. Apply the balm to dry skin, gently massage it, and then rinse with warm water.
Follow up with Ceramic Slip Cleanser, which is designed to purify the skin without stripping it of moisture. This gentle, foaming cleanser contains a blend of French green clay, bentonite clay, and white kaolin clay to draw out impurities and tighten pores. Additionally, it includes rice and olive oil esters to nourish and soften the skin. Apply Ceramic Slip to damp skin, massage in circular motions, and rinse thoroughly.
This double cleansing routine ensures that all traces of makeup, dirt, and oil are removed, while also providing hydration and soothing benefits. By incorporating both cleansers, you can achieve a deeper clean and maintain a healthy, balanced complexion.
What should I do for acne? ‘Salicylic acid is one of my favourite ingredients for acne. Salicylic is oil-soluble, so it dissolves the oily build-up deep within the pore. It can be very drying as well, but that’s why I like U.F.O. Ultra-Clarifying Acne Treatment Face oil – because it’s salicylic acid but in an emollient base, so it’s not going to strip your skin and you can use it every single day.’
Retinoids, Vitamin C and AHAs in Your 30s
“For almost everyone in their late 20s and early 30s, there’s a drop-off in collagen and hyaluronic acid production. There’s some thinning out of the skin,” advises Dr. Grossman.
‘Our ‘power of three’ philosophy incorporates three key ingredients into your skincare routine for transformative results: AHAs, vitamin C and of course, retinol,’ explains Riley. ‘You really need all three from my perspective, to have total skin transformation. No matter if you are in your 30s or 40s. Retinoids really work by helping to transform your skin from the bottom up, and alpha hydroxy acids work from the top down by cleaning the kind of dirty slate that’s on the surface of your skin. So together, they’re often just a power couple because they really give you total and complete change. And vitamin C is such a strong antioxidant and really great for the overall look and appearance of your skin’.
Lactic acid is particularly well-suited for sensitive skin due to its gentle yet effective nature. ‘As one of the milder alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), it has a larger molecular size, which allows it to penetrate the skin more slowly and evenly. This gradual absorption reduces the risk of irritation and inflammation, making it ideal for those with delicate skin. Additionally, lactic acid is a natural humectant, meaning it attracts and retains moisture, helping to keep the skin hydrated and reducing dryness and sensitivity. Its dual action of exfoliating and hydrating ensures that sensitive skin can benefit from smoother texture and improved radiance without the harsh side effects often associated with stronger acids. This makes lactic acid a key ingredient in creating effective yet gentle skincare solutions for daily use,’ shares Riley.
You need retinoids if you haven’t already used them for acne in your 20s. “It’s the gold standard for increasing cell turnover, boosting collagen, and reducing pigmentation, pores, fine lines, and wrinkles,” says Riley. ‘Personally, I think there’s a lot of misconception about vitamin C and retinoids. But as long as I leave them plenty of time between applications, they do play really well together. And I love using an alpha hydroxy acid with my retinoid because it will reduce flakiness. I’m also always thinking about my moisture barrier and my microbiome. I hear a lot of people in their 30s calling their skin sensitive. Most people aren’t born with sensitive skin — what they’re doing to their skin can sometimes cause this sensitivity.’ For example, if you live in a polluted environment, barely wash your face and simply splash it with hard water. Think about it: Do you have sensitive skin, or do you have reactive skin, which is a result of what you’re putting it through?
‘I recommend using retinoids at night, either after cleansing or after applying Good Genes. Our high-dose retinoid serum, A+, and our sleeping night retinol oil, Luna, are both excellent options. They use a retinol ester, which is as effective as traditional retinol but 90% less irritating, providing all the benefits without the downtime. Retinol is also effective for treating dark spots and pigmentation caused by sun exposure,’ adds Riley.
Grossman also recommends adding a hyaluronic acid product. “It really helps to hydrate and plump the skin,” she says. “It’s great for everyone, whether you have dry or oily skin. Layer HA under a moisturizer for more hydration and use it with retinoids to decrease irritation.” Sunday Riley’s C.E.O. Afterglow Brightening Vitamin C Gel Cream moisturizer has the skin-brightening properties of vitamin C along with sodium hyaluronate, the salt form of hyaluronic acid, for deep hydration.
Step It Up in Your 40s and 50s
“You are facing significantly more changes in your skin now,” says Dr. Grossman. “This is where you want to step up and address aging in a multifactorial way: Peptides to increase collagen production and ingredients to promote DNA repair and anti-glycation.”
So keep up with your skincare regimen from the previous decades and add potent ingredients like niacinamide to the mix. Check out Sunday Riley’s B3 Nice 10% Niacinamide Serum, an advanced 10% niacinamide serum that helps with minimizing pores, dark spots, and improving skin’s radiance. ‘This is a thin, water-based serum. I chose this consistency because I assume users follow multiple skincare steps throughout the day and don’t want excess oiliness. This serum is designed to absorb quickly into any skin type, whether dry or oily. You can use it either in the morning or at night,’ shares Riley. Niacinamide strengthens the skin’s barrier and increases hydration by boosting ceramide production, which helps mitigate the potential irritation and dryness from retinol. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that soothe redness and sensitivity. Together, they accelerate cell turnover, improve skin texture and tone, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and protect against oxidative stress. This duo works harmoniously to provide potent anti-aging benefits and a more youthful, radiant complexion, making it a superb choice for comprehensive skin care.
The peptides in Sunday Riley’s Pink Drink Firming Resurfacing Essence are designed to help firm and resurface the skin while a green tea antioxidant fights the aging effects of pollution and oxidative stress on the skin. This essence supports the skin’s natural microbiome, promoting a healthy, radiant complexion. It harnesses the power of peptides, fermented honey, and botanical extracts to strengthen the skin barrier, ensuring optimal hydration and protection against environmental stressors. By nourishing the skin’s microbiome, the Pink Drink Essence helps maintain a balanced, resilient skin environment, reducing the appearance of redness and irritation. Its lightweight formula absorbs quickly, leaving the skin feeling refreshed and rejuvenated, making it an essential step in any skincare routine.
‘Additionally, using products with vitamin C is crucial, as it brightens the skin, reduces hyperpigmentation, and provides antioxidant protection. Dullness and the overall lack of radiance is an alternate sign of aging that we often don’t talk about,’ says Sunday. ‘You can use these products morning and night. I do it all the time because, in the morning, you get that great antioxidant protection. And the evening vitamin C is just so great again for making sure that you look up, you wake up and you look bright and youthful. Layering Vitamin C under your sunscreen amplifies protection against the sun’s harmful rays, offering a powerful shield that not only deflects UV damage but also neutralizes the free radicals that sneak past, ensuring your skin remains radiant and resilient.’
- C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum
Benefits: This serum targets dullness, dark spots, and discolorations, providing a bright and even skin tone. It also fights signs of aging by promoting collagen production.
How to Use: Apply 1-2 pumps to clean, dry skin in the morning. Follow with sunscreen during the day. - C.E.O. Vitamin C Rich Hydration Cream
Benefits: This hydrating cream brightens the complexion, reduces the appearance of dark spots, and provides antioxidant protection. It also deeply moisturizes, leaving skin soft and radiant.
How to Use: Massage into clean, dry skin twice a day, morning and night. Follow with sunscreen during the day. - C.E.O. Glow Vitamin C + Turmeric Face Oil
Benefits: This face oil brightens, hydrates, and evens out skin tone. Turmeric provides anti-inflammatory benefits, while vitamin C offers antioxidant protection and radiance.
How to Use: Apply 2-3 drops to the face and neck after cleansing, both morning and night. Follow with sunscreen during the day. - C.E.O. Afterglow Brightening Vitamin C Gel Cream
Benefits: This gel cream provides an immediate glow and brightens the complexion with advanced vitamin C. It hydrates the skin, reduces the appearance of dark spots, and improves overall skin tone and texture. It is enriched with lutein, a powerful antioxidant known for its skin-protective properties. Derived from marigold flowers, lutein gives the product its characteristic yellow hue. This natural pigment not only adds a vibrant color but also helps to filter out blue light and protect the skin from environmental stressors.
How to Use: Apply to clean, dry skin, morning or night. Can be used alone or under makeup. Follow with sunscreen during the day if used in the morning.
Sunday Riley opts for THD Ascorbate in her formulations because it is significantly more stable than other forms of vitamin C. Unlike traditional L-ascorbic acid, which can degrade quickly and lose potency when exposed to light, air, and water, THD Ascorbate maintains its effectiveness over time. This stability ensures that the product delivers consistent, powerful results from the first application to the last. Additionally, THD Ascorbate is lipid-soluble, allowing it to penetrate deeper into the skin for more profound antioxidant protection and collagen-boosting benefits. By choosing this superior form of vitamin C, Sunday Riley ensures that her products provide maximum efficacy and long-lasting skin-brightening and anti-aging benefits.
Stay Hydrated in Your 60s and 70s
Throughout our lives, our skin experiences various types of discoloration for different reasons. It’s particularly noticeable in mature skin, where deeper lines or more pronounced discoloration may take longer to improve. Therefore, adopting a dual approach that focuses on both prevention and repair is beneficial. By taking proactive steps to protect and nurture our skin, we can work towards maintaining its health and appearance at any age. ‘As a natural part of aging, our bodies experience collagen degradation, leading to visible signs like lines, wrinkles, and loss of skin firmness. Additionally, those sunny days from our youth can leave their mark in the form of hyperpigmentation — little spots that appear as we age, reminiscent of “kisses” from the sun. Hyperpigmentation isn’t exclusive to aging, though; it can also occur in younger people. For instance, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can develop after a breakout, especially if the skin was irritated or damaged, leaving behind a red mark,’ explains Sunday.
“As you get older, the skin barrier gets weaker, and there are a lot more issues with dryness,” explains Dr. Grossman. “You need thicker, richer creams, and add oils to them. You want to prevent water in the skin from evaporating, so mix oils into moisturizers for extra hydration.”
Sunday Riley’s Juno Antioxidant + Superfood Face Oil restores and rehydrates the skin’s moisture barrier with superfood seed oils. It can be layered under your moisturizer or mixed in with it for extra hydration. Sunday Riley’s Vitamin C Rich Cream and ICE Ceramide Moisturizing cream are the perfect moisturizers to hydrate and protect dry skin.
“When I see my patients who follow these protocols throughout their lives, they’re aging pretty well,” says Dr. Grossman. “So it’s nice to know that using these skincare ingredients works. As you get older and have more skin and aging issues, you want to activate as many pathways as possible to get the best results. But remember, staying out of the sun is super important your whole life.”
The doctor has spoken!
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