As October marks the end of the Spring/Summer 2023 series of Fashion Week shows, it’s safe to say that after observing the New York, London, Milan, and Paris runway hair and makeup looks that we’ve seen so far, we’re certainly not only entering an era extreme beauty, but we plan on having it stick around come next season.
“People are definitely tired of hiding behind face masks for the last two years,” says makeup artist Kanako Takase who created the makeup looks for this year’s Alberta Ferretti and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini shows. “We’re ready to have bold looks again — especially when it comes to lips.”
The general makeup mood? Let’s party. This isn’t to say that bringing a little drama to your beauty look doesn’t make it wearable for everyday life. From striking, glossy brows to embellished, gem-encrusted lids, it’s about creating balance with the rest of your look. “I had models arrive [backstage to Alberta Ferretti] with silver glitter all over their eyes from another show. If you keep all the other parts of your complexion very simple and fresh, you can pull off this look in real life even though it’s more ‘intense,'” says Takase.
At Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, your classic red lip got a fresh remix with some strategic blurring and a darker tone. “To get the blurred-out line seen on the models, use a small fluffy eye shadow brush to apply your liquid lip color” instead of directly using the applicator to your lips. (Try Addiction Tokyo The Matte Lip Liquid in Carmine Red or Foxiest Brown to imitate a similar look.)
If bold color feels a little too over the top, the good news is that the majority of beauty looks overall have been about a focus on sunkissed skin. It’s just about finding your glow through strategic makeup (which can be created in a three-second swipe of Addiction Tokyo Cheek Tint in On Vacay layered with Addiction Tokyo Glow Stick in Feel the Heat See the Light, then blending). But it’s also about giving your skin the love and care it deserves with a dedicated, unrushed skincare routine.
“When we get to 2023, I don’t think people necessarily still want fast and quick ways to approach makeup. People should take the time and treat themselves. I do many layers of lotion and serum before sealing everything in with cream or oil,” she says. Backstage at both shows, facialists use generous amounts of Sunday Riley C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum and Sunday Riley ICE Ceramide Moisturizing Cream as a part of the skin’s pampering process. “And I gently do a lymphatic drainage massage to depuff and lift. This brings us to having better skin that leads to less base makeup,” says Takase.
The overall approach to next spring’s makeup vibe is to take your time. “What’s the rush?” asks Takase. “Just breathe.” And if that’s the philosophy, we can’t wait to embrace it ASAP.
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