Chances are, enzymes are an ingredient you have spotted in your skincare arsenal. These natural exfoliators work wonders at improving cell turnover, clarity, and brightness. Want to learn more? You’re in the right place. Here, we spoke to the experts about why enzymes are so important in skincare, which ones to use, and how to best incorporate them into your routine.
Meet the Experts
Sunday Riley , CEO, founder and product formulator
Dr. Preema Vig , aesthetic doctor
Abi Oleck , aesthetician
Chrystianna Filis , skincare expert
What are enzymes?
While we have enzymes in the body, in terms of skincare products, we are talking about plant-derived enzymes. These enzymes are a type of protein that is known as biological catalysts. This means they have the ability to speed up processes. In our skin, that’s exfoliation. ‘Enzymes, derived from fruits like papaya and pineapple, work by gently breaking down the keratin protein in the outer layer of the skin, which helps remove dead skin cells without causing irritation. This makes them ideal for sensitive skin types and generally does not significantly alter the skin’s pH balance.
On the other hand, AHAs are water-soluble acids derived from fruits and milk, such as glycolic and lactic acid. They work by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, promoting cell turnover and revealing smoother, brighter skin underneath. While enzymes and AHAs can improve skin texture and appearance, AHAs are generally more potent and can address issues like fine lines and uneven pigmentation more effectively,’ explains Sunday Riley.
AHAs typically have a lower pH, which can temporarily lower the skin’s pH, promoting a slightly acidic environment that enhances exfoliation but may lead to increased sensitivity, especially for those with delicate skin. ‘Maintaining a proper pH balance is crucial for healthy skin, as it helps protect against harmful bacteria and maintains the integrity of the skin barrier,’ highlights Sunday.
The benefits of enzymes
Enzymes speed up the natural process of skin renewal that takes place in the top layers of our skin.
This acceleration of skin cell renewal is highly beneficial for the skin. “The benefits of using enzymes regularly are removal of superficial skin cells and encouraging desquamation (the shedding of the outer layers of the skin),” Oleck highlighted. “Enzymes also help reduce pore congestion and pigmentation by helping to break down the clusters of melanin,” Oleck added. Plus, these benefits can be reaped by those even with highly sensitive skin.
The enzymes you need to know
‘Fermented honey in our firming essence Pink Drink itself is not an enzyme, but it contains enzymes. Honey naturally contains enzymes like glucose oxidase, invertase, and diastase, which are beneficial for the skin. When honey is fermented, the enzymatic activity can increase, enhancing its potential skincare benefits. These enzymes help to break down dead skin cells, promote cell turnover, and provide gentle exfoliation, making fermented honey a valuable ingredient in skincare products for its nourishing and renewing properties,’ explains Riley.
Papaya extract: Like all enzymes, papaya dissolves the keratin protein layer of the skin. “Papaya helps promote skin healing and collagen formation, which allows for healthy-looking skin and skin elasticity,” skincare expert Chrystianna Filis said.
Bromelain: Extracted from pineapple, this enzyme has many benefits. “It has antioxidant and antibacterial properties and also helps to reduce redness and soothe the skin,” Dr. Vig noted. “Pineapple promotes healthy skin as the fruit contains vitamin C and beta carotene. These antioxidants can help improve overall skin texture, minimize skin damage from sun and pollution exposure while also helping to reduce signs of wrinkles,” Fillis added.
Blueberry: Blueberry enzymes are not just an excellent breakfast ingredient but a skincare hero. They have anti-aging properties and brighten the skin while softening sebum.
Pumpkin: One of the most popular enzymes spotted on skincare ingredient lists, pumpkin enzymes can benefit all skin types. This antioxidant boosts collagen production and speeds up skin cell renewal.
Actinidin: Derived from kiwi, mango, and banana extracts, these enzymes will make a real difference to your skin. “These fruits help prevent dirt, bacteria, and dead skin cells from accumulating on the skin surface with their natural chemical exfoliating and anti-bacterial benefits. In addition, they simultaneously moisturize the skin to allow the skin to rebuild its strength,” Fillis commented.
How to use enzymes in your skincare regime
While enzymes are naturally derived, they are considered active ingredients thanks to their exfoliating properties. Subsequently, it’s best to proceed with caution if you have sensitive skin and start slowly when introducing new ingredients to your routine. “I recommend using products containing enzymes every two to three days after you have slowly introduced them into your bespoke skincare routine, as this allows your skin time to get used to them,” Dr. Vig advised.
When it comes to exfoliating your skin, the choice between enzymes and acids depends on your skin type and specific needs. Enzymes, like those found in fermented honey, are gentle and ideal for sensitive skin. They work by breaking down the proteins in dead skin cells, providing mild exfoliation without causing irritation. Fermented honey, such as that used in Pink Drink, not only exfoliates but also nourishes and hydrates the skin, making it a soothing option for those with delicate or reactive skin.
‘Choosing AHAs like fruit acids and vegan lactic acid over enzymes can be advantageous for those seeking more potent results. AHAs are particularly effective in addressing issues like fine lines, uneven pigmentation, and dullness, providing a more intensive treatment compared to the gentler exfoliation offered by enzymes. The vegan lactic acid from beets, in particular, is an excellent choice for those looking for plant-based skincare solutions. While enzymes derived from fruits like papaya and pineapple are ideal for sensitive skin due to their mild action, AHAs can deliver more noticeable improvements in skin texture and radiance. For individuals looking to tackle more pronounced skin concerns, incorporating AHAs into their skincare routine can yield faster and more dramatic results,’ shared Riley.
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