There’s not a lot that vitamin C can’t do. Its benefits run the span of reducing the look of fine lines and wrinkles, protecting against UV-induced photodamage, improving hyperpigmentation, and promoting collagen production, says Sunday Riley, CEO, founder and product formulator. Overall, vitamin C gives your skin that same glow you feel after getting a full night’s rest and having a fresh, cold-pressed glass of green juice. Vitamin C is generally a well-tolerated ingredient across all skin types, but not all Vitamin C products are created equally. ‘The stability of the ingredient and how the product is formulated is what is really dependent on whether or not you’re going to get those great vitamin C results. L-ascorbic acid is the most researched form of vitamin C, but unfortunately, when you get it into a serum, it can oxidize and turn brown. Vitamin C is essential for protecting your skin against pollution and other environmental aggressors, which can cause skin damage like hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and dullness. We use THD Ascorbate in our CEO line, which is the absolute gold standard of vitamin C – a highly potent, more stable, and less irritating form. Ensure the ingredients you’re putting on your skin are high quality and at the highest standard,’ says Sunday.
Meet the Experts
Sunday Riley , CEO, founder and product formulator
Emily de Golian , M.D., dermatologist and Mohs Surgeon with Dermatology Consultants, P.C.
‘Most people aren’t born with sensitive skin — it’s what they’re doing to their skin that can sometimes cause this sensitivity,” says Riley. “For example, if you live in polluted environments, barely wash your face, and simply splash it with hard water. Think about it: Do you have sensitive skin, or do you have reactive skin, which is a result of what you’re putting it through?”
It all comes down to being smart about your cleansing routine, choosing the right type of vitamin C for your sensitive skin, and a little bit of know-how. Below, we guide you through the dos and don’ts.
Choose a non-irritating type of vitamin C.
Dr. de Golian states that while L-ascorbic acid, a popular form of vitamin C, requires a low-pH formulation and can irritate sensitive skin, other forms like magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD ascorbate), and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) are gentler yet remain effective and stable.
All products from the Sunday Riley C.E.O. collection are safe to use daily for people with the most sensitive skin. They all have high-potency THD ascorbate. It’s powerful, stable, and clinically proven to brighten the appearance of skin and can reduce signs of premature aging. THD ascorbate is particularly recommended for those with sensitive skin, as it is less likely to cause irritation.
For instance, C.E.O. Afterglow Brightening Vitamin C Gel Cream is a lightweight gel cream. This type of moisturizer absorbs quickly without leaving a heavy or greasy residue, providing hydration and comfort without exacerbating any heat or discomfort associated with hormonal fluctuations, such as during pregnancy or menopause, which often bring about hot flashes and feelings of puffiness. ‘If you have oily skin, you’ll like this texture. If you live in a humid climate, you’re going to like it, too. This cream is really for all skin types. You’ll get that instant glow in the skin, and even after 24 hours, you’ll see that the skin is being hydrated. We’ll continue to see those hydration levels and that transformation in the tone as well. That’s what you’re going to get from these multitasking moisturizers. This is an amazing moisturizer for everyone,’ says Sunday. ‘I would say our moisturizers do more than just moisturize. They are treatments that help you to get rid of dullness, even out that skin tone, while infusing skin with antioxidants.’
C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum is the #1 Brightening specialist in the US. ‘This one is hydrating vitamin C serum. 90% of people say their skin feels moisturized after using it. You’re going to get that instant brightening and smoothness. If you look at C.E.O. serum, it’s actually snow white. You don’t see any of that brown discoloration resulting from oxidation. Once you apply THD ascorbate to the skin, it has an enzymatic reaction with the skin and turns into acid. So it goes into the skin a little bit deeper and easier. To balance C.E.O. 15% vitamin C serum, we also use PHYTOSTEROLS COMPLEX to go in and soothe the appearance of skin sensitivity and calm the appearance of the overall look of the skin. Isolated from soybeans and containing at least 40% β-sitosterol, these concentrated phytosterols help reduce the look of redness due to skin sensitivity,’ explains Sunday. ‘There’s also a dash of glycolic acid in there to reduce the pH. Because vitamin C loves a more acidic environment, you could use it in the morning or the evening. It’s just universally adaptive. I apply it to my fingertips, massage them together to warm them up, and apply it all the way around my face, into my neck, and into my upper chest every single day. It has a very high dose of vitamin C that’s incredibly stable and great for the overall look and appearance of your skin.’
The color of C.E.O. Glow Vitamin C Oil is contributed by turmeric. Turmeric can be taken internally, but I also love to put it on my skin. We’re going to help to have that transformation in the skin. I apply it top to bottom, neck to chest, and shoulder to shoulder because this area also gets a lot of sun, and you start to see discoloration there. ‘C.E.O. Glow is a lightweight, dry-touch oil that gives a luminous, hydrated look to your base. It’s a great antioxidant product. I like to mix one pump of C.E.O. serum and a few drops of C.E.O. Glow oil in the morning. I mix it in the palm of my hand and apply it to my skin, and then I go and have my morning coffee. It’s so easy. Everyone has time to do that. And you have instant radiance and all-day protection,’ Sunday says. ‘My other trick is to use C.E.O. Afterglow gel cream mixed with a small amount of C.E.O. Glow oil under foundation.’
C.E.O. Rich Hydration Cream is creamy and thicker in texture. ‘ This is our number one moisturizer in the UK for a reason. If you like that type of feeling, you’ll love C.E.O. Rich. You can use it day or night. It doesn’t feel heavy. It soaks in straight away. It also has lime pearl extract that will help exfoliate and clarify the skin. THD Ascorbate is specifically meant for people with sensitive skin, and that lime pearl extract is going to have it gently resurfaced,’ explains Sunday.
Check the concentration of your product.
‘I also think we all get a little hung up on percentages and ensuring we are always putting the highest concentrations of active ingredients on our skin. When, in fact, we sometimes need to look at the ingredients themselves, the quality of the ingredients, and how they are being delivered to the skin,’ says Sunday. ‘THD Ascorbate, a form of vitamin C, is special. It goes into the skin a lot deeper. It’s oil soluble, which will be really important to penetrate your skin. But it’s also a quasi-drug in Asia at 3%. So, for reference sake, in our serum, it’s at 15%. It’s a quasi-drug for brightening the skin: the dark spots, the age spots, and the sunspots on your skin, all that hyperpigmentation with 15%. It is the highest amount of Vitamin C you can put in the formula that will not irritate the skin,’ explains Sunday.
Be smart about how you layer and combine products.
Vitamin C in the form of THD ascorbate works well with AHAs and BHAs, niacinamide, and even retinoids.
- AHAs and BHAs: THD ascorbate works well with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). These acids exfoliate the skin’s surface and help clear pores, which can enhance the penetration and effectiveness of vitamin C. By combining Good Genes All-in-One Acid Treatment with products from C.E.O. collection, you can address issues like dullness, uneven skin tone, and texture simultaneously.
- Niacinamide: Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, is known for its anti-inflammatory and barrier-strengthening effects. When Sunday Riley B3Nice 10% Niacinamide serum is used with THD ascorbate products, the combination can reduce signs of aging, improve skin barrier function, and even out skin tone. Both ingredients are stable and do not negatively impact each other’s efficacy, making them a powerful duo for anti-aging and skin brightening.
- Retinoids: Integrating THD ascorbate with retinoids (vitamin A derivatives) can provide comprehensive anti-aging benefits. While retinoids in A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum or Luna Night Oil promote cell turnover and collagen production, THD ascorbate in C.E.O. Collection products offers potent antioxidant protection and aids in repairing UV damage and pigmentation. This combination can accelerate the visible benefits, helping to reduce wrinkles and improve skin firmness and clarity.
Using THD ascorbate in combination with these active ingredients can lead to improved skin texture, increased brightness, and a more even complexion.
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